1:24 Hasegawa Italya Reynard F3000

 

5/28/11

Looks like I need to make some repairs to this WIP thread.  Lost my photo gallery site so for now I have switched to Picassa Web albums.  It will take me a bit to relink all of the photos.   The entire gallery is at Link to Reynard Photo Gallery
5/4/11

Wow, where did April go?  Here are a couple of photos from work completed on 3/18 when I added some fastener details to the side pods and engine cover.

I also added some chrome mylar film for the rear view mirrors.

I also added the wind screen

Here I painted the wood rub strips on the front wing.

Added the air deflectors in front of the rear wheels.

 

The last detail I am going to try to add are PE floor braces from the Top Studio Kit.   Spent 2 hours trying to put them together so far.  What a Pain!

Each brace will be made of 10 or 12 pieces, assuming I don’t lose them all!

Here I have added short bits of wire on the floor and the rear suspension as attachment points

That’s where I am at the moment.  More to come.

3/12/11

It’s been a busy couple of days in the model room.  On Tuesday I did another test fit of all the major parts.

I finished with all of the decals and was able to get a coat of future on the body Friday night.



I also spent time finishing the Fuel injection electronics  box and prepared a Top Model resin fitting for the fuel line.

Assembled the wheels and tires

And then final assembly started in earnest this morning.  First was the body to the chassis

then the valve covers when on.  You can also see the Top model fitting and part of the electronics control box in this view.

Finished the spark plug wires

Another test fit for the engine cover

Assembly of the front suspension.  I had to cut open the lower A arm mounting points since there was no clearance between the wheel and the hub to assemble the parts according to the instructions.  I also mounted the steering rack first since the clips are not at the same angle as the A arms.


I then mounted the rear wheels and tires

Model is now about 95% complete.  Just have mirrors, wind screen and some other little fiddly bits to add.




Sure looks like I need to clean my camera lens to get rid of those spots.

 

3/8/11

Didn’t get as much done the rest of the weekend as I did Friday Night.  I was able to get a lot of the decals applied.  Had some problems with small fractures on some of them but I was able to patch them up.



 

3/5/11

Well, after an ice storm here in Michigan I didn’t have power for 2 days and internet access for a week.  I did get some building done on this project.  First was a test fit of the nose cone and body to the chassis.

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Then I painted the Fuel tank and front bulkhead semi-gloss black.  (Tamiya)

Next up was re-creating the large A/N fitting on the side of the gearbox.  I didn’t like the shape of the previous one.  This one is made of styrene rod instead of bent wire and allowed me to create a sharp 90 degree bend like my reference photos showed.

I added the cooling lines to the front of the engine using bent stryene rod.  Painted silver with blue decals for the flex joints. This will be mostly hidden, so no hose clamps were added.

I added the rear uprights (hubs), brake rotors and brake lines. and tied the brake lines to the rear suspension with fine wire to try to make it look like zip ties.

I finally received the Crazy modeler Tire markings sheet I had ordered and I discovered that the Bridgestone Potenza decals are not a match for the kit decals.  The radius is also too large for these tires.   I guess I’m going to go with bare sidewalls on the inside of the tires.  Had to then strip the future gloss coat  back off.

Having been warned that the white decals in the kit are not very opaque, I put down a layer of Microscale white decal film first on the engine cover.

Cooling and oil lines on the right side are now installed.

Rear Wing Pieces ready for assembly

It was kind of trickey to get this multi piece win assembled.   The main wing fits nicely with the pins, but the upper element has a lot of slop in the locating holes.   Here’s what it looks like assembled.  I used magnetic work holding blocks I bought at Harbor Freight company to hold it square while the glue dried.

This is the copy of decal sheet I used for the white decal templates.

 

First layer of decal on the side pods.

 

Well that’s what I’ve accomplished in the past two weeks.

2/18/11

Time for another update.  Tonight I added the injectors for the other side.  Good news, everything fit.  Bad News, I still need to add 3 fuel lines. That took several hours to cut and fit each of the additional fuel lines between the fuel rail and the matching injector.

After I finished with the fuel lines I  added the coolant overflow hose (white) and the oil tank breather hose.  They are held together with a twisted strand of wire.  I didn’t feel like figuring out how to make scale zip ties.

 

Well, that’s it for tonight.

Well, we need to try out this new category on the club website, so here I go.  This will be posting of my work in progress on the 1:24 Hasegawa Italya Reynard F3000 Car.

I actually started this about 19 years ago as an out of the box build. I got it back out when the Grand Rapids club had a “Pink” themed contest in November 2010. It’s not done yet, but I’m having fun building a car again. (Last model finished was a Star Trek Romulan Warbird )

2/12/11

Well I finally overcame my frustrations (parts breaking off, wondering if I am in way over my head) and made some more progress. It helped to create sketches and a list of what I wanted to do next. I only got half of the list it done, but that leaves me a plan for the next modeling session.

Did a test fit of the body on the chassis. Everything still seems to fit.

I added some small discs punched out of .015 sheet plastic to represent the cam covers on the rear of the heads. (and to cover the large hole needed to thread the braided line through)

Main work was on getting the top of the engine together again. First I created a fuel rail from .030 styrene rod and some strips to represent the mounting brackets and added that to the valley between the heads.

Next was grouping the injector wires together. Stripped some insulation off of some phone wire. Ran 2 wires in and only one out. Repeat to group the next 2 wires. Looks like wire wrapping and keeps the bundle size down.

Then I installed the right side Trumpet assembly on the engine.

Then I added Fuel lines between the injectors and fuel rail.

One side done! Had to let the glue dry on some fixes to the other Trumpet assembly, so I called it a night.

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